Immersed in the Chilterns Inspired by Kenneth Grahame
Taking inspiration from Kenneth Grahame’s classic tale The Wind in the Willows, our writer spends several days exploring the woods and riverside villages of Oxfordshire and Berkshire.
Walking through a dense tangle of beech trees to enjoy fresh air after a long drive, the scene from Grahame’s story comes to mind, where Mole becomes lost in the Wild Wood.
“There seemed to be no end to this wood, and no beginning, and no difference in it, and, worst of all, no way out.”
The visit to South Oxfordshire is to explore the area once frequented by Grahame. While the writer does not share Mole’s fear of the woods, there is a shared appreciation for this region, which lies close to suburban areas yet retains pockets of wild nature. It is a spring day when the light feels expansive and daffodils brighten the muddy lane verges. As the moon rises and smoke drifts from a nearby cottage chimney, nocturnal wildlife begins to stir, but the writer feels drawn to the comfort of a cozy retreat. Leaving the woods, the writer returns to accommodation in Hill Bottom.
Run by Koo and Denny Akers, the Bonni B&B is an extension of their Bonni Outbuildings cabin business, which they established during the pandemic. These distinctive corrugated cabins, painted in mint, moss, and terracotta hues, have been commissioned for uses ranging from artist studios to yoga shalas and golf-simulator rooms. The option to order a fully fitted and decorated Bonni cabin has helped define the brand. Although the B&B is located above a timber garage at the couple’s home, it features the same fittings, furnishings, and paint colors as the cabins.
Designed as a try-before-you-buy experience for potential customers, the B&B also serves as a stylish weekend getaway base. Technically a one-bedroom apartment, it includes an open-plan kitchen and living area, a shower room with underfloor heating, and a king-size bed beneath a round window. The interior is lined with paneling and painted in clotted cream, terracotta, and powder blue shades. Details such as white tulips in jugs and vintage mirrors and stripped pine drawers from salvage stores add warmth. The standout feature is the shower, with bottle green corrugated paneling. Guests can pre-order a DIY breakfast; the writer enjoys avocado on toast topped with velvety smoked salmon, a poached egg, and chili flakes while gazing out at a morning mist.
Exploring the Surrounding Area by Bike and Foot
After breakfast, as the mist lifts, the writer dons boots to explore. In summer, visitors follow the leads of Grahame and Jerome K Jerome by enjoying activities on or near the river, including paddleboarding or hiring a boat with a skipper. Expeditions to Oxford, Windsor, and London are also possible, all reachable within an hour by train from Goring or Pangbourne.
Koo and Denny, both locals, generously share insider tips. Borrowing one of their bikes, the writer begins with a gentle 10-minute downhill ride to Whitchurch-on-Thames. The first stop is an art gallery where light reflects off Alice Cescatti’s gilded paintings while owner Peggy Brodie recounts the story of a nearby farmhouse where the seeds of the Womad music festival were planted. Heading east, the writer passes fields grazed by alpacas and watches red kites circling overhead en route to a farm shop offering fresh vegetables and salads sold steps from where they are grown.
In Whitchurch, the writer cycles past the Greyhound pub and crosses the river into Pangbourne. Grahame’s former home is located here, still a private residence. Although he was not living there when he wrote The Wind in the Willows, Pangbourne echoes the picnic-loving Ratty with its cheese shop, bakery, and Italian deli.
Returning the bike to Hill Bottom, the writer finishes the day on foot, walking a few miles along a riverside route through the Goring Gap, a distinctive valley where the Thames cuts through chalk hills. The path joins the Ridgeway, Britain’s oldest road, crossing the river and passing timeless landscapes including brick and flint cottages, ancient churches, a mossy-roofed mill, and pubs with well-worn bars.
Hunger strikes near the waterside tables at The Swan at Streatley, the steamed windows of Pierreponts cafe, and the well-stocked shelves of Goring Grocer. However, waiting back at Bonni B&B is a pre-ordered Riverford recipe-box meal featuring a dinner-in-a-bowl dish of romesco chickpeas. With smoky paprika, lemon, and crumbly Mediterranean cheese, the meal promises another night of restorative calm through the round window. The writer turns from the river and retraces the path to Hill Bottom.
Reflections on a Peaceful Chilterns Retreat
Approaching the Gatehampton Viaduct and entering the tunnel-like holloway leading to Bonni B&B, the writer reflects on a passage from The Wind in the Willows where Ratty tells Mole that beyond the Wild Wood lies the Wide World — a place he has never been and does not intend to visit. Entering the sunken path at dusk, the writer feels similarly content in this wooded corner of the Chilterns, reluctant to venture back into the wider world the next morning.
The trip was provided by Bonni B&B. Doubles start from £150 B&B; breakfast kits are £15 per person. Riverford dinner recipe boxes start at £15 for two. Bikes or paddleboards can be hired for £30 a day.
