Introduction to Osteria Vibrato
Osteria Vibrato opened last month on Greek Street, Soho, presenting itself externally as just another Italian restaurant among many in this pasta-rich area of London. Its neutral frontage offers little to attract the casual passerby, and peering through the window would only result in an unsightly smear rather than insight into what lies within.
However, those familiar with London’s restaurant scene—particularly the well-informed food enthusiasts who keep the city’s culinary gossip alive—recognised this osteria as the latest venture by Charlie Mellor. Mellor previously owned a Hackney establishment launched in 2016 that quickly gained favour among chefs and industry media for its serious approach to food, late hours, and a unique blend of debauchery and traditional comfort. That venue featured dishes such as pumpkin cappelletti with sage and chicken liver pâté accompanied by crisp chicken skin and jellied walnut liqueur. The interior was distinctive, with quirky tables that included cutlery drawers, and the ground-floor bar maintained a lively atmosphere. Mellor himself was central to the experience: warm and serious, yet capable of lightheartedness and possessing an uncanny ability to anticipate guests’ needs.
Much attention has been given to Mellor’s background as a classically trained opera singer before becoming a sommelier, a detail that appeals to food writers but might distract some diners. At Osteria Vibrato, Mellor embraces this musical connection, as the restaurant’s name references the vocal effect of vibrato. During a recent visit, while enjoying starters such as gratinated mussels and Sicilian red prawns, live piano music from a nearby venue added to the ambiance.
Osteria Vibrato is a more mature and refined establishment compared to Mellor’s previous venue, reflecting the passage of ten years and its West End location near the much-loved restaurant nearby. The clientele here tend to prefer sipping fine wines such as La Grange Tiphaine chenin blanc rather than indulging in large quantities of inexpensive skin-contact wine and boisterous dancing. The restaurant describes itself as “timeless,” a fitting description given its elegant flooring, dark panelling, and eclectic, stylish artwork. A discreet sit-up cocktail bar at the rear offers drinks like the Death In Venice (Campari, prosecco, and strawberry) and the Paper Plane (bourbon, Aperol, amaro, lemon, nectarine). The wine list is extensive, featuring around 300 selections, a testament to the expertise of Mellor and his fellow sommelier partner. The kitchen is led by a chef formerly of the now-closed Burro e Salvia in Shoreditch and Louis Lingford, previously of a nearby Dean Street restaurant.
Menu and Culinary Highlights
Before opening, rumours suggested that the menu would be exclusively in Italian, posing a challenge for those unfamiliar with the language. This proved unfounded, as an English version is available, complete with references to the Italian regions associated with each dish. The cooking throughout is precise, confident, and intentional.
Guests are welcomed with complimentary mother-in-law’s tongues—thin, crisp, salty crackers topped with rosemary and served alongside olives—followed by attractively presented veal tartare. The mussels arrive gratinated with herbs and a crunchy topping. A generous portion of seafood fritto misto is offered next, notable for its judicious batter and flavourful execution.
Glossy, deep-red grilled Sicilian prawns are served with lemon and excellent olive oil, which is a recurring feature of several dishes; the olive oils used come with detailed provenance and are priced comparably to gold.
We shared shaved artichokes with pecorino romano, then moved on to a white risotto that was described as "as close to heaven as I’ll ever get on Earth."
Though not strictly necessary, the grilled sole with capers was a delightful addition, especially when paired with a simple house salad. The freshly baked amaretti, which require 12 minutes to prepare, provide a fitting conclusion to the meal, particularly after rich dishes such as the risotto or ricotta tortelli with tomato and butter.
Conclusion
Charlie Mellor is a remarkable figure in the London dining scene, and Osteria Vibrato has the potential to become an institution. In today’s world, there is a place for this kind of traditional hospitality, which offers more than just a meal—it provides a space for decorum and civility. Good restaurants serve as an antidote to the harshness of everyday life. Although Osteria Vibrato is still in its early days, it is already deserving of enthusiastic praise.
"Worth singing loudly about."
Osteria Vibrato is located at 6 Greek Street, London W1. Reservations can be made by calling 020-3326 5231. The restaurant is open for lunch all week from 12:30 pm to 4 pm (5 pm on Sundays) and for dinner Monday through Saturday from 5 pm to 10:30 pm (10:45 pm on Fridays and Saturdays). The average cost is approximately £70 per person for three courses, excluding drinks and service.
