Artichoke and Pea Tagine Pasta
Artichokes and peas, seasoned with garlic, ground ginger, and turmeric, create a remarkable and unexpected sauce for pasta. This is complemented by a showstopping Moroccan-spiced lamb shoulder served with a fruity salsa.
I was fortunate to grow up in a household filled with family and friends, which meant there were often many people to feed. On such occasions, if my mother wanted to prepare something special with minimal effort, she would serve a roast lamb shoulder. Roasts operate on a principle similar to traybakes: the main ingredients are combined in a roasting tin and the oven does most of the work. In Morocco, the term méchoui can refer to either grilled or roasted dishes, but for a lamb shoulder it typically means roasting. Before sharing the lamb recipe, here is my variation on a traditional artichoke and pea tagine, a dish commonly enjoyed in spring. In Moroccan homes, tagines are usually served simply with bread and no sides, but I have found that some tagines make excellent pasta sauces.
Here, the artichokes and peas are seasoned traditionally with garlic, ground ginger, and turmeric. The dish is finished with preserved lemon and olives, which are common ingredients in this tagine and add a light, briny note. Using tinned artichoke hearts, frozen peas, and olives allows this wholesome meal to be enjoyed year-round, regardless of the season.
Prep: 10 minutes
Cook: 45 minutes
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients:
80ml olive oil, plus extra to serve
1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced
5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced or crushed
1½ tsp ground turmeric
1½ tsp ground ginger
300ml vegetable stock
35g flat-leaf parsley, leaves and tender stems, finely chopped
Salt
1 generous pinch sugar
340g spaghetti or other dried pasta
2 × 400g tins artichoke hearts, drained and quartered lengthways
170g frozen peas
140g pitted kalamata or other purple olives, drained and quartered lengthways
1–2 tbsp deseeded and finely chopped preserved lemon
30g parmesan or vegetarian alternative, finely grated, to serve
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, turmeric, and ginger, cooking and stirring frequently for three to four minutes until fragrant. Add the stock, parsley, a teaspoon of salt, a quarter-teaspoon of pepper, and the sugar. Bring to a boil, scraping the pan bottom occasionally. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, for 35 minutes until the onions are soft, translucent, and infused with the spices' colour and flavour.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. About 10 minutes before the sauce is ready, add the pasta and cook according to packet instructions until almost al dente. Reserve one cup (240ml) of the cooking water, then drain the pasta.
About five minutes before the pasta is ready, uncover the onion pan, increase heat to medium-low, and add the artichokes, peas, olives, and a tablespoon of preserved lemon. Cook, stirring frequently, until the peas are tender and the artichokes are warmed through.
Return the drained spaghetti to the empty pasta pot, add the sauce, and stir well to combine. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally and adding reserved pasta water a tablespoon at a time if needed to loosen the sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt or preserved lemon if desired. Serve immediately, topped with a generous drizzle of olive oil and grated parmesan.
Ras el Hanout Lamb Shoulder Méchoui with Pistachio and Apricot Salsa
This tender lamb shoulder, infused with ras el hanout and slow-cooked, is sure to be the highlight of any gathering. It pairs well with couscous, roast potatoes, or good bread.
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 4 hours 30 minutes
Rest: 20 minutes
Serves: 6-8
For the ras el hanout (makes 50g):
1 tbsp ground turmeric
1 tbsp ground ginger
1 tbsp sweet paprika
1 tbsp ground cumin
1 tbsp ground coriander
2 tsp ground allspice
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cardamom
10 gratings fresh nutmeg or ½ tsp ground nutmeg
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp dried rose petals (optional)
For the lamb:
2kg bone-in lamb shoulder
3 medium onions, peeled and quartered
3 tbsp olive oil
5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced or crushed
1½ tbsp ras el hanout (see above)
1¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
120-180ml chicken or vegetable stock
For the pistachio and apricot salsa:
1 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped
100g shelled pistachios, chopped or crushed
120g dried apricots, finely chopped
25g fresh coriander, finely chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp white-wine vinegar
½ tsp fine sea salt, or more to taste
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan)/350°F/gas mark 4. To prepare the ras el hanout, combine all the spices and rose petals, if using, in a small airtight container and mix well. Seal and store in a cool, dark place such as a kitchen cupboard.
Pat the lamb dry with kitchen paper and pierce the flesh all over about 20 times with a small sharp knife.
Arrange the onions in the centre of a large roasting tin and place the lamb on top. In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, garlic, 1½ tablespoons of ras el hanout, salt, and pepper, stirring until well mixed. Pour this mixture over the lamb, turning it to coat evenly, and use your hands to spread it all over the lamb, ensuring the mixture is worked into the incisions. Keep the joint fat-side up.
Pour enough stock into the roasting tin to a depth of about 5mm, then cover tightly with foil. Roast for three and a half to four hours, basting the meat every hour, until the lamb is tender. Carefully remove the foil (do not discard it) and roast the lamb for an additional 35-45 minutes until the skin is crisp, golden, and the meat is very tender and falling off the bone. Remove from the oven, cover loosely with the reserved foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the salsa by combining all ingredients in a small bowl. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more salt if necessary.
Once the lamb has rested, carve and serve immediately with the onions and pan juices, garnished with the pistachio and apricot salsa.
These recipes are edited extracts from Madaq: Simple Everyday Recipes with the Flavours of Morocco by Nargisse Benkabbou, published by Quadrille at £28. To order a copy for £25.20, visit the publisher’s website.
