Introduction to Gwen
At the rear of a dimly lit bar on a high street in Machynlleth, Powys, Wales, a curtain conceals a restaurant that measures just three metres wide and accommodates only eight diners.
Gwen, which opened in 2023, was named the best restaurant in Wales in the 2025 Harden's guide.
Chef Corrin Harrison's Journey
Head chef Corrin Harrison, who previously led the kitchen at Michelin-starred sister restaurant Ynyshir, views this accolade as recognition of his own culinary path.
"Being the sister restaurant of the former best restaurant in the UK and the only two-star in Wales is a massive shadow, so for me it feels like the first steps out from underneath that shadow,"
Located on a street lined with independent shops and cafes, the building comprises just two small rooms.
The front area is a casual wine and cocktail bar seating up to 18 people, which feels spacious by comparison. Regular patrons include local bikers who visit weekly.
The Dining Space and Atmosphere
Beyond the bar and a leather curtain lies the intimate fine dining space.
"I want to cook the best quality food I can cook, but I don't like the pretentiousness of three-Michelin star restaurants,"
Harrison, aged 35, explained his aversion to the formality often associated with high-end dining.
"It's what used to scare me as a young chef, going out to eat at a restaurant with white tablecloths and very rigid, where you almost felt you had to be of a certain class to be there."
He aimed to create a welcoming, personable environment, akin to visiting someone's home.
Philosophy and Dining Experience
Harrison's approach emphasizes openness and hospitality, fostering a relaxed atmosphere intended to encourage guests to try new dishes.
The restaurant avoids crisp white linens and strict dress codes.
The dimly lit space features communal tables, encouraging diners to meet and interact.
"Everyone's got the same common interest if they come,"
Harrison said.
"They're interested in trying food, so there is common ground between people."
Although seating guests together was initially daunting, after three years there has been no awkwardness.
"We've had guests come in for lunch, just four people - two couples - and leave and book holidays together,"
He added that some guests who met at the restaurant have returned together.
Background and Move to Wales
Originally from London, Harrison relocated to Wales in 2017 after learning about Ynyshir's owner and star chef Gareth Ward through a fellow chef.
Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms, near Machynlleth, offers a high-end dining experience starting at £468 per person, including a 30-course tasting menu and an in-house DJ.
It remains Wales' only restaurant with two Michelin stars, awarded in 2022.
Ynyshir recently attracted media attention when Ward stated he was unashamed of its one-star hygiene rating, citing its unconventional approach to raw ingredients and techniques.
Harrison discovered Ward on Instagram and attended a trial at Ynyshir in 2016.
"I had to convince myself. There was nothing in Wales for me apart from Ynyshir then,"
he said.
"I didn't drive, I was a young single man moving to the middle of nowhere."
He worked two periods at Ynyshir: from 2017 to 2018, and then returning in 2019 to become head chef.
"The first week I moved into the staff accommodation at Ynyshir, I decided to walk to the local supermarket and it took me two-and-a-half hours. I had to call someone on my way back because it got dark,"
he recalled.
"It was a massive culture shock, a massive change."
Opening Gwen and Team Structure
Harrison described the transition to Gwen, also owned by Ward, as "fate." Ward had expressed openness to opening another restaurant if the right opportunity arose.
The owners of the building housing Gwen approached them, and the project came together.
The restaurant employs just four staff: two brothers managing the bar, and Harrison alongside chef Jamie Henstone in the kitchen.
They prepare all the food, clear tables, and wash dishes themselves.
"You get to see the joy on people's faces when they consume what you've created,"
Harrison said.
Culinary Style and Menu
Harrison noted that his greatest challenge was not replicating the dishes he created at Ynyshir.
"Your food should be a CV of what you've done in your career. Experiences you've had, your heritage, where you've cooked."
Eventually, he developed a cooking style he considers his own.
A sample menu includes dishes such as Devonshire eel, chalk stream trout, Sicilian pistachio, and Yorkshire rhubarb.
"All we're really trying to do is put our ideas onto a plate and hope that people understand it,"Harrison added.
Goals and Future Aspirations
While a Michelin star or two for Gwen is not the primary goal, Harrison acknowledged it would be "amazing."
"My main aim is to make sure everyone who comes through the door is satisfied,"
he said.
"If you aim for that, you can only end up in a successful place."
