The rise of English red wines
When was the last time you purchased a bottle of English red wine? For many, the answer may be never. Although increasingly found on retail shelves—Ocado and Waitrose Cellar both offer a selection—English reds have struggled to shake off a reputation for being overpriced. Most bottles are priced between £15 and £25, which places them beyond what many consumers consider suitable for everyday drinking.
According to the national trade organisation for British winemakers, red wine likely represents less than 5% of all English wine production. The pricing challenge is not unique to red wines; England's winemaking industry, despite being one of the fastest-growing agricultural sectors, remains relatively small-scale, which naturally drives prices upward. Additionally, England's cooler climate is not traditionally associated with red wine production, especially when compared to the big, juicy reds available affordably from warmer regions. Consequently, English reds have often been viewed as expensive novelties.
However, this perception is shifting. Climate change is making red wine production in the UK more feasible, and consumer tastes are evolving. There is a growing demand for light, juicy reds—such as the trend for chilled reds as an alternative to rosé during summer—which often feature lower alcohol by volume (ABV). This aligns well with a wine culture increasingly focused on moderate consumption.
Exploring English red varieties
If you are considering trying English reds, pinot noir and, to a lesser extent, pinot meunier—the red grape varieties traditionally used alongside chardonnay in classic Champagne blends—dominate the scene. For those seeking something darker, Winbirri’s dornfelder from Norfolk offers a notable example, enjoyed recently alongside pizza. Enthusiasts of fuller-bodied reds might explore wines such as those made from rondo and regent blends, like those produced by Oast Wood’s divico. These hybrid grape varieties are bred to withstand frost and disease, traits increasingly valuable as climate conditions become more unpredictable.
“Making reds in England is always going to be a challenge,” says Adrian Pike, winemaker at Westwell. “We’re in a marginal climate and can only make them in kinder years. In our arsenal, however, are long, slow periods of ripening, which add plenty of ripe flavours to the fruit: we can make pretty, light reds that reflect where they’ve been grown.”
Westwell’s Pinot Noir 2023 has drawn attention to English pinot noir. While it may lack the mushroomy, forest floor notes typical of French counterparts, it offers its own character with wild red fruit and herbal nuances. Ben Adams’ sold-out Enmill Field 2022, a crisp, redcurrant-flavored pinot blend from Wiltshire, also presents a distinctive identity. Both wines are priced above £25, appealing primarily to consumers who to the “buy less, buy better” philosophy. The challenge is that once you experience higher-quality English reds, you may find yourself wanting more.
A taste of English reds
- Winbirri Signature Dornfelder, 12% – A distinctive plummy dornfelder from Norfolk, representing a full English red with a difference.
- Billy Sandridge Barton 2023, 9% – A lively, tart pinot blend from Devon, best served chilled.
- M&S Balfour Pinot Noir, 12.5% – An elegant and widely available pinot noir from the garden of England.
- Westwell Pinot Noir 2023, 11% – A flavorful wine that highlights Kent’s potential in red wine production.
- Bolney Estate Dark Harvest, 11% – A dark, food-friendly hybrid blend from Sussex.
- Oast Wood Divico 2023, 12% – A deeply spiced, purple, fruity wine made from 100% estate-grown divico hybrid grapes.
- Sophie Evans Pinot 2023, 10% – A Kentish pinot blend so light it borders on rosé, yet is notably delicious.
