The tweed and tartan skirt
Designed by her dressmaker Norman Hartnell, Queen Elizabeth II first wore her Harris tweed jacket and Balmoral Tartan skirt in the 1950s. This ensemble became a staple of the Queen's off-duty attire over the decades, chosen for its practicality during her outdoor activities and its modest appearance.
Royal fashion commentator and Vogue contributor Marian Kwei notes that the outfit's statement was significant despite its understated look.
"The fabrics used were intended to 'promote British fashion, excellence and production'," says Kwei.
"And weaved into the outfit's feminine cut and low-key tones are connotations of 'stability, dependence, soft power'," she adds.
"It's 'I'm in charge', without being too loud about it."
Kwei further explains that the outfit was not designed to follow fashion trends.
"If she was chasing fashion trends, we would think she was blown away by every wind,"she says, suggesting the traditional look conveys a sense of stability.
The look became recognized as quintessentially British style. Exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut highlights its influence on contemporary designers, citing luxury Italian brand Miu Miu's 2024 Balmoral collection, which reimagined the Queen's tartan kilts.
The Coronation dress
Also designed by Norman Hartnell, the Queen's 1953 Coronation dress was crafted from silk produced in Kent and adorned with gold bugle beads, diamantés, and pearls in intricate embroidery.
While exemplifying British craftsmanship championed by Elizabeth II, the dress is particularly notable for its symbolism, a hallmark of the Queen's style.
The dress features the floral emblems of the four nations of the UK, and after approving Hartnell's eighth design, the Queen requested inclusion of emblems from other Commonwealth states.
Among these are England's Tudor rose, Scotland's thistle, the Welsh leek, the Irish shamrock, the Canadian maple leaf, and India's lotus flower.
"The gown was pretty much a nod to Britain and the Commonwealth," says Kwei.
"Her sartorial choice, she adds, was 'really an indication of the kind of Queen we had and how she reigned'."
The Eisenhower dress
In 1957, Elizabeth II wore an elaborate sleeveless green gown, also designed by Hartnell, for a state banquet hosted for US President Dwight Eisenhower at the British Embassy in Washington DC.
"She was on the world stage for 70 years and it's quite impressive to have just always made the right choice in terms of clothing," says de Guitaut.
Regarding the message conveyed by this dress, de Guitaut finds it ambiguous.
"It's absolutely beautiful," she says, "but I can't quite see an overt reference in it to be honest."
The dress was worn during a US visit aimed at strengthening transatlantic ties during the Cold War.
Kwei suggests the dress's "apple crisp green" color may be a subtle nod to America.
"From New York being known as 'The Big Apple' right through to the traditional place the 'American Pie' holds in American culture, apples have become synonymous with all things classically American."
"The dress says 'I'm Britain's sovereign, this is us, but I'm also nodding to you'," says Kwei.
Author and royal fashion commentator Elizabeth Holmes notes that early in her reign, the Queen used her clothing to establish herself as a glamorous young woman on a global stage dominated by men.
"The pieces designed by Hartnell, often with a fitted waist and full skirt, 'accentuated her femininity, rather than attempting to mask or hide it'," she adds.
The blue gown and bolero jacket
The crinoline-skirted kingfisher blue gown and matching bolero jacket worn by the Queen at her sister Princess Margaret's wedding in 1960 is described by de Guitaut as having an "incredible timeless quality."
With guipure lace detailing, the dress echoed the silhouette of the bride's gown and was accessorized with a blue hat adorned with three blue silk roses, believed to reference Princess Margaret's full name, Margaret Rose.
While admired for its meticulous construction, de Guitaut notes the dress offers insight into a historical moment in a country on the verge of change. It marked the last occasion a full-length dress was worn by a royal family member other than the bride at a wedding.
"The Queen lived a very long time and her life chronicles this period where British fashion really emerged," says de Guitaut.
"It was 1960, we've still got to get into the swinging 60s where the hemline is raised by [British fashion designer] Mary Quant, it was just such a moment in time," says Kwei.
Having favored darker colors in her youth, the Queen's preference for blue and other bright shades became apparent around this period.
"There's something about blue that's calming, it endears trust without being too in your face. It's fashion diplomacy," says Kwei.
The transparent raincoat
Distinct from many other items in the exhibition is a clear plastic raincoat from the 1960s, designed by Hardy Amies, another of the Queen's couturiers. Amies later created space-age costumes for Stanley Kubrick's 1968 film, A Space Odyssey.
Like the transparent plastic umbrellas that became her trademark during official engagements, this raincoat allowed the public to see the Queen's brightly colored dresses in all weather conditions.
Colors were significant, says de Guitaut, emphasizing the importance of visibility for those attending public appearances.
"So even if you're 10 deep in the crowd, you can see a figure in a bright yellow coat or whatever it happens to be... You've seen the Queen," she explains.
The futuristic coat, fashionable in the 1960s, reflects how the Queen remained attuned to contemporary trends. Kwei notes that
"she didn't want to be known as a fashion icon."
De Guitaut highlights that alongside subtle messaging, fashion trends influenced many of the Queen's outfits in her earlier years.
In the 1940s, Christian Dior's New Look with cinched waists was evident, while the 1950s saw references to Balenciaga's more voluminous styles in her clothing.
"In the 60s she was wearing some quite short hemlines, little tailored suits, the colours - everything really speaks to that era,"she adds.
By the 1970s, the Queen wore looser-fitting evening gowns with drapey arms and swirling patterns.
Despite incorporating fashion trends, the Queen's style remained
"very elegant, quintessentially British and restrained,"according to de Guitaut.
What connects each decade is that sartorially, the Queen
"always made the right choice"appropriate for every occasion.
"For someone who was on the world stage for 70 years, it's quite impressive."
Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style is exhibited at the King's Gallery from 10 April 2026. This article was first published in December 2025 and updated for the exhibition's opening.
