Punchy cocktails and traditional Greek cuisine in Birmingham
Cylla, a sophisticated Greek restaurant located on Newhall Street in Birmingham, draws its inspiration from Scylla, the mythical Greek sea monster known for her six snarling dog heads and serpent’s tail, who dwells near the whirlpools of Charybdis. The restaurant’s ambiance and menu reflect this dramatic heritage with a blend of elegance and playfulness.
If Scylla herself were to visit Cylla, she would likely be seated in one of the exquisite private booths near the entrance, ideal for those seeking privacy. We chose one of these cozy spaces over the long, attractively lit cocktail bar to enjoy a round of Poseidon’s Wrath.
“It’s a bit like a dirty martini,”our server explained. She was knowledgeable, warm, and confident—qualities invaluable in hospitality. This cocktail, a bold and bitter mix of vodka, vermouth, piney mastiha, seaweed, and kalamata olive brine, offers a salty, invigorating experience akin to a rescue by the RNLI. For those preferring sweeter drinks, Cylla offers a dozen other cocktails featuring honey, peach, and even meringue, all with dramatic Greek myth-inspired names such as Aphrodite’s Bloom, described as a sensuous ode to the golden hour.
Recently revamped, Cylla successfully balances theatricality without descending into kitsch. The restaurant’s dedication to providing a seriously elegant yet playful Greek dining experience is evident. Visiting on a rainy Wednesday in mid-January—a time when many restaurants are quiet, unheated, or closed—Cylla was lively and well-occupied with couples and larger groups, reflecting its location in Birmingham’s business district. Finding convivial midweek dining in winter can be challenging, but Cylla delivers.
The menu: traditional Greek with Mediterranean and British influences
The menu is predominantly traditional Greek, with occasional Mediterranean and British touches. The smoked aubergine meze stood out for its smooth, rich texture and impressive depth of smokiness, achieved through careful preparation of the vegetables and enhanced with parsley, garlic, and vinegar. The prawn saganaki was also excellent, featuring a generous portion of firm, grilled king prawns in a well-balanced garlic and ouzo tomato sauce. The warm homemade bread basket is a must-have accompaniment.
The lamb baklava, however, was less remarkable. It resembled traditional sweet baklava but was filled with cumin- and thyme-flavored lamb. In retrospect, the grilled octopus with pearl onions and fava puree might have been a better choice. The Greek-inspired beef tartare included chopped gherkins, capers, truffle, and Tabasco, topped with a pungent chive mayonnaise and smoked egg yolk, served alongside roditiki pitta—a crisper, flatter bread authentic to Rhodes. These thoughtful details lend a personal touch to Cylla’s menu.
Central Birmingham offers many dining options, often chains that, while generally good quality, tend to be expensive. Cylla, by contrast, feels like a restaurant forging its own unique path, a rarity in today’s dining scene.
Main courses and standout sides
The red snapper main course featured a generous, well-cooked portion of flaky fish served with a subtle bouillabaisse-style sauce. While the sauce could have benefited from more pronounced notes of basil, fennel, and star anise, the dish was overshadowed by the beef fat potatoes. These potatoes, listed modestly on the sides menu, are arguably the best fondant potatoes the reviewer has ever tasted, and possibly the finest potato side dish currently served in the UK. Visually, they resemble the familiar rectangular confit potato stacks popularized by gastropubs, but their texture is exceptional: a fluffy mashed center surrounded by a crisp, beef fat-infused exterior on all four sides.
Dessert and overall impression
The karidopita walnut dessert offered a departure into elaborate plating, featuring smears, foams, and puddles of pecan cremeux, chocolate namelaka, vanilla, and chocolate pâte à cigarette. Despite its fanciful presentation, the dessert was delightful.
Cylla is a standout restaurant. The reviewer has already recommended it three times, equating this to a strong personal endorsement. It serves as a reliable venue for group dining and an intimate setting for romantic meals, especially when securing one of the private booths. Dining here is likened to entering the home of a glamorous sea monster, with a cautionary note to
“Wear a life jacket, because some things are worth getting wet for.”
Practical details: Cylla is located at 43 Newhall Street, Birmingham B3. The contact number is 0121-714 9443. It is open all week from noon to 11 pm. Prices start at approximately £60 per person à la carte. A set lunch is available Monday to Friday from noon to 4:30 pm, priced at £29.95 for two courses and £34.95 for three courses, excluding drinks and service.
